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Mansehra,
a place of scenic beauty, was upgraded to a district level on
Oct. 1, 1976. Before that Mansehra was a tehsil of Hazara
district. The district derives its name from its headquarters
town Mansehra which is named after Man Singh, a Sikh governor
under Ranjit Singh. It consists of Mansehra, Oghi and Balakot
tehsils and also includes PATA (Provincially Administered
Tribal Area) of Kaladhaka. During summer, people come here for
recreation from far flung areas of Pakistan as well as rest of
the world. They feel peace and tranquility here.
Historical
background: The ancient
history of Mansehra is not traceable because it is shrouded in
the mists of innumerable centuries. The historians have
recorded different traditions among the people to construct
its history. The district Mansehra seems to have been
inhabited by man from times immemorial. Mansehra has very old
history in the sub-continent. Its geographical boundaries had
constantly been changed in the times of various Rajas,
Maharajas and kings in the past. Alexander the Great after
conquering the north-western India established his rule over a
large part of it. Historians are of the opinion that in the
year 327 B. C. Alexander handed over this area to Abisaras,
the Raja of Poonch state.
During
the Maurya dynasty Mansehra remained a part of Taxila. The
Great Ashoka was the Governor of this area when he was a
prince. After the death of his father, Bindusara, Ashoka
ascended the throne and made this area along with Gandhara
valley a major seat of his government. The famous edicts of
Ashoka inscribed on three rocks in Mansehra town are the
evidence of his rule here. These edicts prove that this area
was a famous religious centre where pilgrims used to come for
performing pilgrimage. For ages the devout Hindus after
climbing up the Bareri peak performed religious obligations to
"Sheva".In second century A. D. a mythical Hindu
king Raja Risalu, son of Raja Salbahan of Sialkot, brought
this area under his sway. The local people consider him as
their hero and even today parents narrate to their children
the stories of Raja Risalu and his wife Rani Konklan in the
winter nights. When the Chinese pilgrim Hiun-Tsang visited
Indo-Pakistan this area was under the control of
Durlabhavardhana, the ruler of Kashmir.
It
is also said that Turkey Shahi and Hindu Shahi dynasties ruled
Mansehra one after another. Among the rulers of Hindu Shahi
dynasty Raja Jaipala was the most eminent ruler. Mehmud of
Ghazna defeated him during his (Mehmud) first Indian campaign.
Mehmud paid no attention to Mansehra for establishing a Muslim
rule over here except using it as his approach to Kashmir.
Again in the 11th century A. D. after the fall of Hindu Shahi
dynasty, the Kashmiris occupied this area under the leadership
of Kalashan (1063-89 A. D.). From 1112-1120 A.D. king Susala
ruled this area. In the last quarter of the 12th century A. D.
Asalat Khan, a general of Mohammad Ghuri, captured this area
from Kashmiris but soon after Ghuri's death the Kashmiris once
again occupied it.Thereafter the history of Mansehra is
obscure up to 1399 A.D. when the great Muslim warrior Taimur,
on his return to Kabul, left here some soldiers for the
protection of this important route between Kabul and Kashmir.
By this time, the Muslim ousted the Hindus from power and
established their authority. But in 1742 AD Shahab-ud-Din, a
Turk prince, came from Kabul and established his rule here. He
founded the state namely Pakhly Sarkar and chose village
Gulibagh as his capital.During the Mughal period the local
Turk chiefs acknowledged the authority of the Mughals. Since
Mansehra provided main route to Kashmir, therefore, Emperor
Akbar and later on Jehangir went to Kashmir via Mansehra. The
first quarter of 18th century AD became miserable for the
Turks because their rule came to an end due to the decay of
their vitality and the increasing aggression of the Swatis and
their allied forces . Under Jalal Baba the most crucial attack
was that of 1703 AD when the Turks lost power to them. When
Ahmad Shah Durrani extended his kingdom to Punjab and Kashmir,
Mansehra also came under the control of this new invader. The
Durranis controlled Mansehra through local khans. In the
beginning of the 19th century AD their power weakened which
opened the way of revolt against them. They sent many
detachments of troops to maintain law and order but their
control decreased day by day. When the Sikhs arose in power
under Ranjit Singht (1777-1838 AD) they asserted themselves
independent of the Durranis. Ranjit Singh organised his "Khalsa"
army on modern lines and then started to extend his regime
over a vast area. The Sikhs got hold of Mansehra in 1818 AD
after a stiff resistance from its inhabitants. Soon after the
Sikh annexation of Mansehra to Punjab, Syed Ahmad Shaheed
along with the Mujahideen appeared on the soil of Mansehra.
He, with cooperation of local people, fought many battles
against the Sikhs. At last in 1831 AD in a fierce battle at
Balakot the Sikhs got the upper hand and martyred Syed Ahmad
along with his number of followers. Thus the Sikhs hold
strengthened in Mansehra. After the death of Ranjit Singh,
disintegration of the Sikh state started due to which the
British annexed the Sikhs state to their dominion.
On 19th
March, 1846 AD a peace treaty was signed between the Sikhs and
the British according to which Raja Gulab Singa, Hindu Rajput
general, took Kashmir and Hazara from the British for Rs.
75,00,000. Later on exchanged Hazara with Jamu-Jehlum belt.
The British took over Hazara from him and deputed James Abbot
to make settlement. He brought peace to the area with little
difficulty. Unlike the people of settled areas, the tribes of
Kaladhaka, remained a constant source of trouble for the
British till 1892 AD. The British sent more than four
expeditions against them and ravaged Kaladhaka many times. To
maintain peace in the area the British also took preventive
measure having conferred titles on leading persons. After
their advent the British declared Hazara a district, divided
into three tehsils i.e. Mansehra, Abbottabad & Haripur,
and annexed it with the Punjab. In 1901 when NWFP province was
formed, Hazara became the part of new province of NWFP. During
the British period Mansehra remained in the forefront of
various religio-political movements in the Indo-Pakistan
Sub-continent. The people of this area joined the ranks of
those Muslim freedom fighters who wanted to strengthen the
cause of Islam. They joined the Khilafat movement zealously.
Consequently Mansehra became quite unruly. The British had to
take strict measures to control the situation.
When the
Muslim League started its movement for a separate homeland,
the local people joined it and struggled for liberation from
the alien rulers under the leadership of Quaid-i-Azam and got
triumphant victory against them, culminating in the creation
of Pakistan, an independent state for the Muslims of
sub-continent.
GEOGRAPHICAL
PERSPECTIVE:
Location:
Mansehra is located between 34o - 14' and 35o - 11' north
latitudes and 72o - 49' and 74o - 08' east longitude. It is
bounded in the north by Batagram and Kohistan districts, in
the east by Muzafarabad district of Azad Jamu and Kashmir, in
the south by Abbottabad and Haripur districts and in the west
by Swat district.
Physical
Features: The leading
distinctive features of Mansehra are its mountain ranges, the
plains, the valleys and the lakes. The area has been blessed
with the rich and harmonious combination of tall and stately
fine trees, high mountains, plains, beautiful valleys and
lakes which make it a heaven of peace. The mountain ranges
which enter Mansehra district from Kashmir are the offshoots
of the great Himalayan system. In Kaghan valley the mountain
system is the highest of the area including the Babusar top.
This range flanks the right bank of the Kunhar, contains a
peak (Malika-e-Parbat) of over 17,000 feet, the highest in the
district. On the mountains the grasslands are also found where
Gujars and other nomads migrate during summer for grazing
their sheep, goats and other animals. On the northern side
there are mountains which are the extension of the same
mountain system as that of Kaghan mountains. This range
diverges from the eastern side at Musa-ka-Musalla a peak
(13,378 feet), which skirt the northern end of the Bhogarmang
and Konsh valleys, and sends down a spur to divide the two.
Here also, like Kaghan, thick forests are found especially on
the higher slopes. Due to extensive exploitation only in
unapproachable areas the thick forests are found.
In the west
of the Siran valley the mountain ranges of Richari and Tanglai
run towards the Chuttar plain. This plain is surrounded by the
high mountains of Hilkot. The Batagram valley totally consists
of mountains and hills. Towards the west there is Black
Mountain range and on the north the mountains of Allai are
also important because of thick forests and grasslands on the
higher slopes and like the Kaghan valley the Gujars and other
nomads migrate to this area which is called Malian in the
local dialect. On the south of Chutter and Batagram is the
Agror valley separated by the Tanglai mountain from Pakhli
through a gap which is called Sosal Galli. From Agror
southward are the Tanawal mountains, Bhingra (8,500 feet)
being the highest.
Towards the
west from Oghi the important Black Mountain range runs
northwards. This area is termed as the tribal area and
notorious for the outlaws and criminals. The mountains are
generally covered with forests only on the higher places. From
Mansehra town's westward the area is covered with low lying
hills, the Bareri hill being prominent of them. PLAIN TRACTS:
Some plains of Mansehra worth mentioning are Pakhli, Chuttar,
Agror and Mangal. Pakhli tract is 3,000 feet above the sea
level, 11 mile from north to south and ten mile from east to
west. It is the most fertile and intensively cultivated plain,
especially on the western side and is irrigated by bourns and
nullahs and the Siran river. The Chuttar plain lies on the
north of the Pakhli plain and is 5,5000 feet above the sea
level, smaller in size than the former. The Agror tract is
also popular in the area where rice, barley, wheat, maize and
other crops are cultivated.
Vallys:
There are many valleys in
Mansehra among which the Kaghan valley, Konsh valley, Agror
valley , Bhogarman valley and Pakhal valley are most popular.
These large valleys have, taken together, produced holiday
resorts such as the Kaghan valley. This particularly earned
the reputation of having the most enchanting tourist resorts
of Pakistan. Agror is a small valley lying at the foot of
Black Mountain and is separated from Pakhli by the ridge of
Tanglai. Konsh and Bhogarmang are also famous valleys.
RIVERS:Siran and Kunhar (Nain Sukh) are well known rivers of
the district. The Siran issues from Panjool and flows through
the western plain of Pakhli. Two canals have been taken out
from the Siran river, the upper Siran canal at Dharial and
lower Siran canal at Shinkiari. From Pakhli the Siran runs
into the Tanawal hills and joins the Indus at Tarbela in the
north west. Its total course is between 70 to 80 miles, and it
irrigates 6,273 acres of land. The Kunhar bursts out from the
lake Lulusar at the head of Kaghan valley and after a
turbulent courses of 110 miles falls in the river Jehlum at
Pattan. Since the land upon its bank is little level
therefore, its water is not used for irrigation purposes. Some
other notable bourn and nullahs which flow in district
Mansehra are Pootkattha (Mansehra), Nadi Unhar (Shergarh),
Butkus (joins the Siran near Icharian) and Ichar.
Lakes:
There are three beautiful lakes
in Mansehra district. These are encircled by snow clad peaks
of the mountain range in the Kaghan valley. The names of these
lakes are Lulusar, Dudupatsar and Saiful Maluk Sar. The former
two lie near Babusar top while the latter one near Naran. The
word "sar" is used with the name of each lake
meaning lake. In the summer when the water of these lakes
reflects like a mirror a large number of visitors from
different areas of the country come to watch the enchanting
views of these lakes. With Saiful Maluk Sar a legend of
mythical fairy Badri Jamal and Prince Saiful Maluk is
associated while Lulu Sar is the reminiscent of those 55
participants of 1857 war of independence who had been arrested
near Lulu Sar.
FLORA AND
FAUNA: The flora of
Mansehra is a very interesting study. Due to the diversity of
local topography and climate, particularly of rainfall, the
flora varies from place to place. Tree species are well
represented by the deciduous and evergreen types. The
commonest broad leaved trees are walnut, asanthus, traikun,
eucalyptus, acacia, chestnut, birth-cherry, yew, barmi, peshor,
wild olive, ash, plane tree, alder, Persian lilac, elm,
mulberry, and many species of willow and poplar Birch and
occasionally juniper are found in the higher parts. Among the
conifers there are pine, deodar, blue pine spruce and silver
fir. The best-known forests of pine in Mansehra are the forest
of Batrasi, Jaba, Dadar and Paraziarat. Deodar and blue pine
grow in stony slopes like fir and spruce.
The general
vegetation is of the shrub type which includes the shrubs or
medium size trees. The common shrubs and herbs of the area are
sanatha, grund, phulah, wild indigo, valerian, peony, sorrel,
timar, phitni, hawthorn, oleaster, wayfaring, barberry, bamble,
kamila and others. In the upper area as the snow melts by the
approach of the spring followed by summer, the whole area
gives the appearance of a vast flower bed, dominated by the
number of annual and perennial herbs. Apple, apricot, plum,
fig, pear, wild pear, mango, orange, damson, litchi, and
persimmon are worth mentioning fruit trees of the area.
Sunflower, rose, jasmine, jasmine-zambak, narcissus, tulip,
lily, dog violet, brush flax, iris and must-rose are included
in the flora of Mansehra.
Fauna:
Mansehra district sprawling
over an area of 4579 sq. km. had been traditionally the home
of variety and plenty from faunistic point of view. The
expansion in agricultural activities has affected the natural
habitats of the area. The fresh
water fauna is directly or indirectly dependent on the local
rainfall, natural springs, and mostly the Kunhar and Siran
rivers. The Kunhar River abounds in trout fish, a hot
favourite for amateur fishing zeal. A trout fish hatchery has
been established at Shinu (Kaghan) to supplement the fish
numbers. China corp. gold fish, mullah, chukar and eel are
found in the Siran. For the former two a hatchery has been
established in Ichrian while the latter are commonly found in
the rivers and nallahs. Reptiles like the lizards and snakes
are the master creepers and runners among the terrestrial
fauna. In avian fauna are included several species of herons,
teals, doves, cuckoos, bee eaters, wood peckers, larks,
shrikes, bulbuls, finches and wagtails are widely dispersed in
gardens, cultivated fields, streams and hill slopes. Swallows,
parrots, mainas, pigeon, sparrows, hoopoe, kingfishers and
crows are also found, while western horned tragopan, imperial
monal pheasant, and kokla pheasant are found only in hilly
areas, whereas black and grey partridges as well as quails are
also common. The birds of prey are shikra, sparrow hawk, owl
and several species of vulture. Mansehra still has varied
mammalian fauna despite the fact that the mammals had the
hardest time directly or indirectly through man's persecution.
The rhesus monkeys and the common lungur are dwelling in large
numbers. Among the carnivores, lion and cheetah became extinct
while the snow leopard and leopard are endangered species. The
snow leopard moves up and down the mountains with its
favourite prey like markhor. The other animals found in
Mansehra are wolf, red fox, black and brown bears, jackal,
leopard, leopard cat, Himalayan lynx, mongoose, musk deer,
grey goral and ibex. The pet animals are camel, buffalo, cow,
horse, donkey, sheep and goat.
Senery:
The natural scenery and climate
of Mansehra has a great attraction for the tourists. Low and
bare hills that fringe the level tracts have attraction of
their own, panoramic view of widespread plain and invigorating
fresh air in all seasons and the higher hills with pine
covered slopes, the snow capped peaks of Kaghan, Bhogarmang,
Konsh, Allai and the regions beyond the mountains are torrents
and water-falls. The peaceful lakes of Kaghan, the villages
perched on almost inaccessible heights and the green valleys
are appealing to the lovers of beauty. These lovers of beauty
rejoice when they walk on mountain crests and see the mists
sweeping up. They can listen to the roars of water from behind
the great grey curtain, and look at the torrent at their feet
tumbling over the rocks down gully and glen. The stillness of
the dawn, of noon and of evening as well as the winds pure and
austere are really most enchanting for the lovers of beauty.
Climate:
The climate of the district is
warm in summer and cold in winter. The northern part where
there are high mountains is cold in summer due to snow clad
mountains and is very cold in winter. The total annual
rainfall of the district according to 1972 census report is 72
inches. Temperature ranges from 2oC to 36oC in the district.
Important &
Historical Places:
There
are a number of important and historical places in Mansehra.
Kaghan is famous for its pleasant climate in summer when
tourists come to watch its beautiful views. Then comes Balakot,
which has a great significance in the history of Hazara with
special reference of Syed Ahmed Shaheed's movement. The other
well-known villages and towns are Mansehra, Baffa, Shinkiari,
Dhodial, Battal, Bhogarmang, Phulra (chief village of the
former Phulra state), Oghi, Shergarh (the summer headquarters
of the former Nawab of Amb), Darband (former centre of Amb
state), Gulibagh (capital of former Pakhli Sarkar), Ichrian,
Ghari, Habibullah, Jabori, Chutter, Dadar, Khaki and Kaladhaka.
Agriculture:
The lack of irrigation
facilities in the district has affected the productivity of
the soil in spite of its fertility. Total area of the district
is 10,67,291 acres out of which 2, 58, 999 acres is cultivated
and 8,08,292 acres is uncultivated. Irrigated land is 48, 571
acres only. Thus the land proves not much productive.
Cultivation mainly depends on seasonal rainfall. The soil of
Pakhli plain is very fertile and productive due to irrigation
facilities. The mentionable crops of Mansehra are wheat,
maize, rice, tobacco rapeseed and mustard, barley and fodder,
vegetables, soybeans and pulses. Tea growing experiments have
also been made at Shinkiari, Baffa and Ichrian due to a
suitable climate and congenial condition. These experiments
have proved successful. Fruit orchards are also a source of
income. Large number of people earn their livelihood through
agriculture.
Mines &
Minerals: The mineral
resources of Mansehra are mainly under-developed. Mica,
marble, soap stone and chromites have been located as large
deposits at Kaghan valley, Batrasi etc. Silica sand, topaz,
brights, fulspar, tanbra and phosphate are acquired from
Jabori, Butakundi, Butrasi, Oghi and Gidarpur while limestone
is found everywhere in the district. A lot of minerals lie in
an inaccessible area and if more attention is paid, the
mineral wealth can contribute a lot for development of a
number of industries.
The People:
Mansehra district is inhabited
by a large number of tribes as well as khels. The people are
as mixed as the soil. Among them some are the oldest
inhabitants while the other arrived here in different periods
of time. The first arrival of the latter group is dated back
to the medieval times. Some invaded this area and settled here
while some others came to seek shelter.
In ancient
times these people practiced Buddhism but later on they
shifted to Hinduism when it gained power after a long while.
In the medieval period the Muslims introduced Islam to them.
The inhabitants of Mansehra speak Hindko, Pashto, Gojri and
Urdu languages. Hindko, Pashto and Gojri are the local
languages while Urdu being the national language is spoken and
understood throughout the district.
Gujars,
Tanaolis, Swatis, Awans and Syeds are important and prominent
tribes of the district. Except Awans all of them are
politically sound and powerful. Swatis and Syeds have better
economic status while majority of the other tribes have weak
economic standing.In addition to above mentioned tribes Dhunds,
Qureshis, Gukhars, Mughals, Rajputs, Turks, Akhun Khels,
Utmanzais, Hassanzais and Nusrat Khels are worth mentioning
tribe and khels in district Mansehra. They live in different
parts of the district but are small in number.The population
of the district according to the census of 1998 is 11,52,839.
The current growth rate is 2.4 per cent. Density per square
kilometre is 252 persons. The total area of the district is
4,579 square kilometres.
According to
the census of 1998, 45.5% of the population is under 15 years
of age; 50.6% is between the age groups of 15 and 64 years,
while 3.9% comprises persons of 65 years old and above.
Literacy rate is 36.3%.
Abbottabad |
Batagram |
Haripur
|
Kohistan
|
Mansehra |